Uganda or Rwanda? An Honest Answer to the Question Everyone Asks

The Bwindi House Gorilla Safaris Journal

Draft · Publication date pendingFROM THE FOUNDER Long ReadGorilla Diaries

Uganda or Rwanda? An Honest Answer to the Question Everyone Asks

I am asked this more than any other question. I sell Uganda and I will not pretend otherwise, but I have trekked both countries, and here is the honest truth about each, so you can choose the one that fits you.

VA

Vincent Arihoruhanga

Founder, Bwindi House Gorilla Safaris

Draft · Publication date pending 8 min read
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15

Field essays

26

Habituated families

4

Bwindi sectors

1,063

Mountain gorillas today

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Editor's note

"The Journal is what I would have wanted to read before I came to Uganda for the first time. Honest, slow, written by someone who lives here. Nothing aspirational. Nothing missing."

Vincent Arihoruhanga, Founder

The archive

Field notes from the gorilla journey and beyond.

The Truth About Gorilla Trekking Nobody Tells You
FROM THE FOUNDER
Long Read
Gorilla DiariesDraft · Publication date pending

The Truth About Gorilla Trekking Nobody Tells You

You will be tired. Your boots will be destroyed. And you will stand seven metres from a 180 kilo silverback who decides, with complete composure, whether you are worth noticing. Here is what to know before you go.

VA

Vincent Arihoruhanga

10 min read

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The Gorilla Families of Bwindi: Who You Might Meet
MUST READ
Long Read
Gorilla DiariesDraft · Publication date pending

The Gorilla Families of Bwindi: Who You Might Meet

Bwindi has 26 habituated gorilla families across four sectors. Each has a name, a home range, a silverback, a distinct personality. Before you go, know who you are visiting.

VA

Vincent Arihoruhanga

11 min read

Read
How to Book a Uganda Gorilla Trekking Permit in 2027
ESSENTIAL GUIDE
Long Read
Travel TipsDraft · Publication date pending

How to Book a Uganda Gorilla Trekking Permit in 2027

An $800 permit, eight people per family per day, and the best dates selling out six months ahead. Here is exactly how the Uganda gorilla permit system works, and how to secure yours.

VA

Vincent Arihoruhanga

12 min read

Read
Why I Chose Uganda Over Rwanda: An Honest Comparison
Long Read
Gorilla DiariesDraft · Publication date pending

Why I Chose Uganda Over Rwanda: An Honest Comparison

Rwanda charges $1,500 for a gorilla permit. Uganda charges $800. Rwanda has around 160 gorillas. Uganda has approximately 460. I am not arguing price. I am arguing honesty about what you are actually choosing.

VA

Vincent Arihoruhanga

9 min read

Read
Best Time to Visit Uganda for Gorilla Trekking
Travel TipsDraft · Publication date pending

Best Time to Visit Uganda for Gorilla Trekking

June to September is the long dry. December to February is the short dry. The honest answer about the best time is more nuanced than any table of months suggests.

VA

Vincent Arihoruhanga

9 min read

Read
Gorilla Habituation vs Trekking: Which Is Right For You?
Long Read
Gorilla DiariesDraft · Publication date pending

Gorilla Habituation vs Trekking: Which Is Right For You?

One hour with a fully habituated family. Or four hours with a family still learning to accept you. The difference is profound, and so is the choice.

VA

Vincent Arihoruhanga

12 min read

Read
Why I Started Bwindi House Gorilla Safaris: A Promise to You
ESSENTIAL READING
Long Read
ConservationDraft · Publication date pending

Why I Started Bwindi House Gorilla Safaris: A Promise to You

I founded Bwindi House Gorilla Safaris with one fixed commitment. A defined portion of every journey is committed to conservation and community support, tracked through the Bwindi House Gorilla Safaris Ledger. The gorillas are not a product. They are the reason everything else exists.

VA

Vincent Arihoruhanga

7 min read

Read
Conservation Through Commerce: How Your Trek Protects Gorillas
ESSENTIAL READING
Long Read
ConservationDraft · Publication date pending

Conservation Through Commerce: How Your Trek Protects Gorillas

In 1981, there were 254 mountain gorillas. Today, 1,063 and growing. This is the story of a conservation model that actually works, and what your permit helps fund.

VA

Vincent Arihoruhanga

11 min read

Read
Uganda's Iconic Five: A Spotter's Field Guide
Long Read
WildlifeDraft · Publication date pending

Uganda's Iconic Five: A Spotter's Field Guide

Gorilla. Shoebill. Tree climbing lion. Wild rhino. Chimpanzee. Five flagship species, all in one country, in concentrations no other African destination can offer.

VA

Vincent Arihoruhanga

13 min read

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First Time in Uganda? 12 Things Nobody Tells You
Travel TipsDraft · Publication date pending

First Time in Uganda? 12 Things Nobody Tells You

The roads. The altitude. The guides who will outpace you on a slope that would humble a mountain goat. The honest first timer's brief.

VA

Vincent Arihoruhanga

10 min read

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What to Wear and Pack for Bwindi Forest
MOST READ
GearDraft · Publication date pending

What to Wear and Pack for Bwindi Forest

The definitive packing list for Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, built from years in the forest. What matters. What does not. And the single thing every first timer forgets.

VA

Vincent Arihoruhanga

7 min read

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The Shoebill Stork: Dawn on Mabamba Wetlands
Photo Story
WildlifeDraft · Publication date pending

The Shoebill Stork: Dawn on Mabamba Wetlands

We paddled into the papyrus in the dark. For forty minutes, nothing. Then, five metres ahead, something prehistoric resolved out of the mist.

VA

Vincent Arihoruhanga

8 min read

Read
Why Kidepo Valley Is Africa's Greatest Secret
DestinationsDraft · Publication date pending

Why Kidepo Valley Is Africa's Greatest Secret

Fewer visitors per year than Masai Mara sees on a busy weekend. Cheetahs in Uganda. A remoteness that feels genuinely earned.

VA

Vincent Arihoruhanga

8 min read

Read
The Tree Climbing Lions of Ishasha: A Field Note
Field Dispatch
WildlifeDraft · Publication date pending

The Tree Climbing Lions of Ishasha: A Field Note

Nobody knows why they do it. When a 180 kilo lion looks down at you from a fig tree, the reason stops mattering entirely.

VA

Vincent Arihoruhanga

7 min read

Read
The Rwenzori Mountains: Africa's Most Forgotten Great Range
DestinationsDraft · Publication date pending

The Rwenzori Mountains: Africa's Most Forgotten Great Range

Ptolemy called them the Mountains of the Moon. Equatorial glaciers, giant heather forests, near total solitude. Almost nobody climbs them. That is precisely why you should.

VA

Vincent Arihoruhanga

9 min read

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Winding road climbing between grassy highland slopes
FIELD GUIDE
Long Read
Travel TipsDraft · Publication date pending

Entebbe to Bwindi: Every Transfer Option, Timed and Compared

Eight hours by road through tea hills and highland forest, or fifty-five minutes by light aircraft over the same terrain. Here is every option for reaching Bwindi from Entebbe, with honest timings and what each one costs you.

VA

Vincent Arihoruhanga

9 min read

Read
How Fit Do You Need to Be for Gorilla Trekking in Uganda?
BEFORE YOU GO
Long Read
Travel TipsDraft · Publication date pending

How Fit Do You Need to Be for Gorilla Trekking in Uganda?

The honest answer is: more than most operators tell you, and less than most travellers fear. Here is what the trek actually demands, what six weeks of preparation looks like, and when age or health becomes a real consideration.

VA

Vincent Arihoruhanga

8 min read

Read
Bwindi's Four Sectors: Buhoma, Ruhija, Rushaga, Nkuringo — Which Is Right for You?
DESTINATION GUIDE
Long Read
DestinationsDraft · Publication date pending

Bwindi's Four Sectors: Buhoma, Ruhija, Rushaga, Nkuringo — Which Is Right for You?

Bwindi has 26 habituated gorilla families spread across four sectors, each with its own character, access routes, and lodge options. The sector you choose shapes everything about your experience. Here is an honest comparison.

VA

Vincent Arihoruhanga

10 min read

Read
What Happens on Gorilla Trek Day: Hour by Hour
FROM THE FOUNDER
Long Read
Gorilla DiariesDraft · Publication date pending

What Happens on Gorilla Trek Day: Hour by Hour

From the 5:30 wake-up to the silence on the walk back, here is the full anatomy of a gorilla trek day at Bwindi — what happens, in what order, and what no one tells you about the hours that surround the hour.

VA

Vincent Arihoruhanga

8 min read

Read
What a Uganda Gorilla Safari Actually Costs in 2027: An Honest Breakdown
HONEST ANSWERS
Long Read
Travel TipsDraft · Publication date pending

What a Uganda Gorilla Safari Actually Costs in 2027: An Honest Breakdown

The permit is $800. The journey is considerably more. Here is the honest, line-by-line cost of a Uganda gorilla safari in 2027 — what everything includes, what is frequently hidden, and what a composed journey with Bwindi House Gorilla Safaris actually costs.

VA

Vincent Arihoruhanga

10 min read

Read

Field Letters from the House

Monthly dispatches from Uganda.

What is happening in the gorilla families. Permit availability. Quiet field notes from our guides. No marketing.